Chef’s Kisses: April
Cookbooks on the rug + sandwiches in the park
Spring always gets me in the mood for a big clean-up – under the fridge, the tops of picture frames, the windows – and this year, this newsletter is getting one too.
Chef’s Kisses has always done too much. It’s a bit too long, has too many themes, and contains too much information. So, I’ve now split it into two letters – the first half was sent out over the weekend, in the perennial April In Season newsletter, and this is the second half.
In this half, I’ll keep sharing some *chef’s kiss* moments from the month (things from both ‘the moodboard’ and ‘the menu’). It includes cookbooks galore, seven sandwich shops, and some fantastic bites out and about in NYC (including some new openings).
On the Moodboard!
At the end of March, I set a weekend afternoon aside to browse through some of my vintage cookbooks and see what might pique my interest for the spring. Just the day before, I had unfurled my new Nordic Knots rug, so I spread my cookbooks out and sat on the pecan-colored rug to browse. With all the florals, Martha Stewart’s Entertaining was the biggest source of inspiration this month. Pages from that browse (and the omelette it inspired me to make) are below.
More (mostly florals) from the moodboard:
Interior designer, Alyssa Kapito’s, daffodils in bud vases – it looks like these are the ones she has
Floral artist, Brittany Asch’s, peeled-petal pink rose arrangement
Castor-fleuriste’s ice cream scoop hydrangea
Simnel cakes from Lannan Bakery + Katie Merchant’s newsletter on simnel cake
Katerina Shukshina’s tulip as a hair bow
On the Menu!
Spring’s sweet vegetables
Despite it being spring, the iconic spring veg that I love are not so readily available at the farmers market yet (with the exception of asparagus and rhubarb, which just popped up this past week). However, in this interim spring period before sweet peas arrive, the vendors at the Union Square Greenmarket have been blessing us with overwintered greens. I’ve written about overwintered greens a handful of times before on this Substack (I included a recipe for them in last April’s Chef’s Kisses newsletter).
For those who haven’t tried overwintered greens before, think of a candied version of a hearty veg like broccoli rabe, spinach, or kale. While that is a wee bit of an exaggeration, being left in the ground winter-long means these vegetables actually produce more sugars (to keep them from freezing). Which makes them far sweeter than their summertime counterparts.
The labels at the market may not advertise that something is overwintered and extra sweet, so just ask if you’re unsure. And, once you know what to look for, you’ll start spotting it yourself. The spinach, for example, is larger than usual, with dark green, sturdy leaves that look almost too robust for spring (see the giant spinach leaves from Halal Pastures below).
I’ve been adding handfuls of spinach to braises and stews to get a little extra iron in. Similarly, this pasta with a sauce of overwintered and blanched broccoli-kale hybrids in anchovy butter is such a great way to incorporate greens (normally something like this would be far too bitter for me, but I promise it was fantastic).
Théo and I also ate 1 1/2lbs of the greens in one sitting. I used Trinity Mouzon Wofford’s recipe for bitter greens with black vinegar from her fantastic new cookbook, Eating at Home.
Eating at Home is all about making easy, delicious dish components that you can mix and match all week long. Add her recipe for shoyu butter rice to the greens, top it all with shiro-dashi scrambled eggs, and dinner is on the table in under 30 minutes.
7 sandwich shops
At the top of the month, I finally got tired of cooking winter food–and I wanted to get outside and see spring–so I started lacing up my sneakers and made it my mission to eat a whole bunch of sandwiches.
From top left to bottom right:
You may know Bánh’s (UWS) more popular sister restaurant downtown, Bánh Anh Em. They regularly have three-hour-long lines, but you can get their same fantastic sandwiches in under 20 minutes at their uptown location. All the sandwiches are excellent, but the brisket holds a very special place in my heart. I recommend eating them in the park for a pretty damn-near perfect spring afternoon.
The rest of these sandwiches are in Jersey City–yes, cross the river, it’s worth it!
Venti often comes up on lists for the best chicken Caesar salad sandwich in the region, and I can attest, it’s great - the crunch on the fluffy sesame-seed-coated bread takes it to another level.
Second Street not only makes their bread in-house, but also makes a sandwich that feeds two for $12. I order pastrami, egg, and provolone, but there is a sandwich for everyone here.
Cangiano’s: I selected the porchetta with pickled peppers and burrata because it sounded delicious. It most certainly was, but I have since learned (from a very reliable source) that the eggplant parm is the best in the city. So I guess I will be going back again soon!
Jersey Bánh Mì makes a mean bánh mì. The chicken is juicy and smoky, and the bread is chewy and squishable. Also, don’t sleep on the spring rolls. Much gratitude to the team who cut holes in the corners of the take-out box so that the steam can escape, preventing sog but keeping them warm <3.
Bread and Salt: If you’ve heard of sandwiches in Jersey, I’d bet that this is the one, and for good reason. We always get the mortadella and the sausage with pecorino, but there are no wrong orders. Bonus points in my book for their bombolone, caffé leccese, and half a red pie to take home, re-warm, and snack on throughout the week. Plus pick up some pantry goods while you’re there. I love taking home a new pasta or canned tomato company during my visits.
Mordi’s: The chicken parm is what they’re known for, and I get why. Even with the punchy-tangy sauce, the cutlet stays crispy. The bread is also so fluffy-soft-chewy, and there is a perfect bit of torch on the mutz.
Best Bites!
This month’s daily breakfast: coffee with homemade almond milk + a perfectly ripe mango.
A single bouquet can fill your whole home. Split it up between vases on the dining table and champagne flutes across the apartment (I keep one in the bathroom, and one above the headboard, with 1-3 stems in each). This was inspired by Alyssa (see the moodboard section). And, if you don’t have champagne flutes, use your next celebration as an excuse to pick up this vintage set on eBay (this set surely would be lovely for florals) or this one on Etsy.
Canyon Coffee just opened in Brooklyn. Not only is the coffee delicious, but their pastry case has baked goods from so many fantastic bakeries in the city. It’s a great place to stop for a coffee and a treat before heading to the botanical garden, museum, or park.
Idea for a nice evening: text a friend (or five) to go to dinner at Mission Chinese. Sit at the bar (or banquette), and prepare to share a delicious meal. Be sure to order the green beans and mapo tofu.
I think Bar Contra is the perfect cocktail bar: the drinks are classics decomposed and rebuilt so they’re familiar, fun, and–most importantly–delicious (we tried four). There is also fantastic food (we had about 3/4ths of the menu – don’t skip the scallop), and a great playlist to match.
Not food, but all about springy-fun and creating with your hands: Violette FR‘s new eyeshadows come in the most beautiful, flowery colors, and are buildable and designed to be applied with your fingers.
The Cherry Bombe Jubilee was such a phenomenal day. I got to learn so much–with friends and fellow food lovers–in such a fun and supportive environment. I really enjoyed the conversation in the breakout session on sustainability. I keep coming back to this note I took: “It’s important where you spend your dollars, if we shift the demand, we shift the supply chain.”
Depop hosted a dinner where John Fraser prepared a low-waste meal from rescued end-of-season fruit, top to root vegetables, and a delicious Hudson Valley Fisheries trout – which, despite seeing them just about every week at the Greenmarket, I had no idea how sustainable their practices were (nor how delicious the fish scales are).
I’ve gushed about it so much already, but Lucie is having the most fun book tour with some of the best people and places in the city, including hosting a joyful, whimsical tea party with Ashley from L’appartment 4f, a book talk at OUTLINE, and a brunch party at Sézane’s Nolita location.
Speaking of OUTLINE, it’s a must-go to if you’re looking to shop a really great selection from brands like The Row and Pleats Please. I’m not just saying that because it’s owned by one of my bffs for over a decade – I’m not biased, it’s just that great. Plus they stock my favorite hair clips by Undo. I’ve shouted them out in my gift guides. After Lucie’s aforementioned talk, I snagged two more in navy and green.
And speaking of long-time bffs, I’ve been watching and loving Margo’s Got Money Troubles – congrats, Briar!
Love this quick reel brimming with wisdom + this longer podcast from On the Media on how beauty is in the process (not the product) and how that process can be play!
And speaking of play, I loved looking at all of these Easter parade costumes. They inspired me to dress up like a rhubarb stalk I saw at the Greenmarket.
See you for more play next month <3
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