March’s Chef’s Kisses

Freezer adventures, a wonderful recipe from Zaynab Issa, and some NYC dining recs

I haven’t written a Chef’s Kisses newsletter in a long time, but I’m bringing it back, for a little while at least. For those of you who are new here, this is my (kind of) monthly newsletter where I discuss the lovely things that I’ve engaged with during the month. It’s mostly food and cooking-related, but not exclusively. I also always include one easy-to-follow recipe. This month’s recipe is coming from Zaynab Issa’s beautiful upcoming cookbook, Third Culture Cooking.

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Defrosting (Myself and My Freezer)

As the ground slowly defrosts to make way for spring produce, I am preparing for the fresh veg season by defrosting any leftovers in my freezer and making vegetable-forward lunches with them.

Once spring vegetables return, I will have no desire to eat leftovers. My freezer stash, however, has been a godsend this winter (for once, past me was future me’s guardian angel). I truthfully regret not exploring the depths of my freezer sooner, as I found a whole bunch of prepared vegetable items that have recently made cooking lunch and dinner far easier and faster.

I finished up one of my two remaining quarts of ratatouille in omelettes. I found some watery romesco, reduced it in a pan and transformed it into a bright, punchy, and meaty sauce that was absolutely delicious when spread on toast and with a fried egg on top. I also ate some of it with radicchio for a snack. Then it was onto tomato sauce: I made a really nice all’Amatriciana with a quart of pureed tomatoes I had, and I have another quart that I think will soon suffer the same fate. There were lots of mushrooms. I prepared them over polenta with a poached egg, and blended some into a sauce, serving it with toast and a poached egg. I guess the lesson here is vegetable leftovers are perfect for spreading on toast and throwing an egg on top of.

These are only a select few photos. All of these dishes were a bit too unremarkable to even bother capturing, but some were too delicious and i wanted to remember them. P.S. The lighting in my apartment is horrible this time of year, I’m sorry.

My freezer is about half cleared. I plan on finishing the job by this time next month (aka when spring produce begins ramping up).

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Transitional Cooking + Green Eggs and Hummus from Zaynab Issa:

March in the northeast is very much a transitional cooking time. Spring has technically arrived but our favorite spring produce items like ramps, peas, and asparagus have yet to peek out of the ground. So, when I do want something fresh and local, I grab what I can from the farmers market: overwintered greens, radishes, and onions. This made Zaynab Issa’s recipe for green eggs and hummus a perfect breakfast or lunch for this time of year. It’s very delicious and she has very kindly allowed me to share it with you.

I went to the market to pick up overwintered kale (imagine kale but a tad bit sweeter and more tender), all the herbs I could find for the salad (I used dill, mint, parsley, and chives), and breakfast radishes. Once home, the dish came together in about 30 minutes. It was delicious, filling, and beautiful (what more could you want from a recipe!?). With each bite being a bit different, you keep coming back for more and more. I halved the original recipe for myself and Théo. The only adjustment was cooking in an 8” pan instead of the 10” pan that was recommended. If you enjoy the recipe as much as I did, you can pre-order your copy of Zaynab's book here and find book tour information here.

Green Eggs and Hummus

The following recipe and words come from Third Culture Cooking by Zaynab Issa:

Serves 4 to 8

45 minutes

“Through much time spent traveling in the Middle East, I’ve become accustomed to Arabic-style breakfasts. Usually served with lots of different herbs, olives, dips (including hummus), vegetables, and eggs, they’re elaborate yet simple. I think of this recipe similarly: the herby, za’atar-spiced frittata is visually striking yet comes together fairly quickly, and serving it alongside a lemony radish salad and creamy hummus makes it feel much more involved than it actually is.

The frittata—a gift that keeps on giving—is one of my favorite things to make. Frittatas keep for days and reheat beautifully. If you’re in a real time crunch, you can skip sauteing the herbs and greens, but the color might not be as vibrant and the frittata may have a little extra moisture.

Neither outcome is the end of the world; it’ll still be delicious. Don’t be intimidated by the concept of a general mix of greens and herbs—this is the perfect recipe to use up what you have in the fridge and experience the glorious flexibility of this frittata.”

For the frittata

• 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

• 2 cups (3½ to 4¼ oz or 90 to 120 g) mixed baby kale leaves, dill, chives, or parsley,* roughly chopped

• 1½ teaspoons plus a pinch Diamond Crystal kosher salt

• ½ cup (120 ml) heavy cream

• 1 garlic clove, peeled

• 10 large eggs

• 1 tablespoon za’atar*

• Freshly cracked black pepper

For the salad and assembly

• 3 small red radishes, thinly sliced

• ¼ cup (35 g) cherry tomatoes, halved

• ¼ cup (40 g) pitted Castelvetrano or Kalamata olives, roughly chopped optional

• 1 cup (50 to 75 g) leafy greens or herbs

• Diamond Crystal kosher salt

• Lemon wedges, for squeezing and serving

• Hummus,* for serving

• Olive oil, for drizzling

• Freshly cracked black pepper

*Instead of…

• Mixed kale, dill, chives, and parsley, use any other greens and tender herbs

• Za’atar, use a mix of 2 teaspoons dried thyme, ½ teaspoon sesame seeds, and ½ teaspoon sumac

• Hummus, use labneh or fava bean dip

Method

To make the frittata: Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a 10-inch oven-safe nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the greens and herbs and season with a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring often, until they’ve wilted and reduced in volume, about 3 minutes. Transfer them to a blender or food processor; reserve the skillet. Add the heavy cream and garlic to the cooked greens and blend until a paste forms. Add the eggs, the remaining 1½ teaspoons salt, the za’atar, and black pepper to taste and blend until just combined. (Alternatively, transfer the greens mixture to a large bowl, add the eggs, 1½ teaspoons salt, the za’atar, and black pepper to taste and whisk with a fork to combine.)

Pour the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil into the reserved skillet and heat over medium-high heat. Swirl the pan so the bottom is coated in the oil. Pour in the egg mixture and leave to cook undisturbed until set around the edges, about 3 minutes. Transfer to the oven and cook until just set and slightly jiggly in the center, 12 to 16 minutes. If a custardy texture is not your preference, leave it in the oven until completely set in the center, an additional 2 to 4 minutes.

Carefully remove the pan from the oven. Let rest for 5 to 10 minutes, then slide onto a platter or cutting board.

Meanwhile, make the salad: Combine the radishes, tomatoes, olives, and leafy greens or herbs in a small bowl and add a pinch of salt and a squeeze of lemon.

To serve: Transfer the frittata to a cutting board and slice into wedges. Serve over a swoosh of hummus, top with the radish salad, and finish with a drizzle of olive oil and a grinding of pepper.

Store leftover frittata in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 3 to 5 days. Reheat in the microwave in 30-second increments or in the oven at 350°F (175°C) until warmed through.

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after making the above recipe I had some left over radishes, and used it as an excuse to make that viral sourdough loaf with butter laminated in it. It was indeed delicious, and my favorite part was the crust which just got cooked with all this butter making it thin and crackly and rich. We, of course, topped it off with more butter, flakey salt, and ate it with some jammy eggs and the remaining radishes.

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dining out diaries

This month is less cooking-heavy because I dined out a lot… While this was bad for my wallet, it was great for my social life (I am, admittedly, quite a hermit) and arguably more importantly, my taste buds. So, if you’re planning on dining out in NYC anytime soon, here are some recent restaurants I ate at and the delicious dishes I ordered at them.

I went to Kiko with some friends and we basically ordered the whole menu. Every single thing was fantastic: delicious flavors, excellently cooked, and perfectly seasoned. If you’re dining with a smaller party, there are a few dishes I would say are absolute musts: the Dungeness crab (and I’m not a big crab person), the sweet potato croquette (I would order it again for the mustard alone), and the lobster crispy rice (I often find lobster overcooked and chewy, but this one is perfectly cooked and came with a delicious sauce). Also, do not sleep on the vegetable sides. The portions are big and they are delicious. If you have room, do get the pasta or the chicken as well, they are both excellent.

I finally had the chance to go to Taqueria Ramirez before heading to a birthday party the other day, and, wow. Every single taco I tried was phenomenal, so my suggestion here is to order as many as you can fit in your stomach :)

Somehow, my wonderful husband snagged a reservation for four at Le Veau d'Or at 8 pm on a Friday. I've been wanting to dine here for months and I am so happy we finally did. It was so nice to go with friends as well, as the vibes and food are perfect for special occasions. We all ordered different things and thus got to try a bit of everything… And everything was pretty perfect! The potato soufflé with salmon roe and crème fraîche was a damn smart dish - the way they made the potatoes into a little potato-chip tunnel you could break open and shovel crème fraîche and roe into. I also enjoyed the tête de veau and the frog’s legs (which came in an obscene amount of sizzling butter). All of the mains–sweetbreads, lamb, chicken, and duck–were quite simply, excellent.

At this point we were full but we persevered for dessert as it’s a prix fixe menu. The île flottante was a true chef’s kiss, and I thoroughly enjoyed my little quince tarte tatin. My favorite part, however, was the freshly fried beignets dusted in powdered sugar that they brought out right before bringing the check. A very special touch for a New York restaurant. We tore into them, dipping them into the anglaise leftover from the flottante. They were so hot, crispy, custardy, and vanilla-y. It was the perfect ending to a delicious meal (this is also what inspired my pancake donut recipe!). P.S. Do not skip out on their drinks menu. The cocktails are delicious and strong, just how I like them.

I also went to a Banana Republic party at Bangkok Supper Club. I’ve actually already written about my love for Bangkok Supper Club, having dined there the month they opened. The crab tartlet with uni they served was absolute perfection, and the chicken wing stuffed with rice is texturally sublime. Honestly, everything I tried was a total knockout and it was a friendly reminder to myself to go back again, ASAP.

Finally, Crevette. The Sicilian sashimi here is so delicious and refreshing. The tuna on the potato cake is fun and texturally delightful. There is a chorizo and clam toast dish that I loved, and the butter beans with squid… I want it again… Right now… Lastly, the choux bun stuffed with warm sautéed apples and soft serve was like an apple pie sundae. I loved how the crispy choux au craquelin played with the soft serve and the play of the hot and cold temperatures. I left feeling inspired!

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Some Other Things in March that Sparked Joy

• Making this birthday cake featuring strawberry jam and yuzu curd nestled between two vanilla chiffon cakes and encased in diplomat cream. I topped it all off with some yuzu ladyfingers and Oishii berries.

• Listening to “Dialogando” by Alessandro Alessandroni while on a lovely little sunny spring walk. Absolute perfection.

• The budding trees… More on spring flowers in next month’s mid-month newsletter.